A faucet is one of the few plumbing fixtures you touch dozens of times a day, so when it starts dripping, sticking or spraying sideways it is hard to ignore. The question is whether it is worth a repair or whether you are better off replacing the whole thing. After enough kitchen and bath calls around Summerville and Mount Pleasant, the answer follows a fairly clear pattern.
Repair usually makes sense when
- The faucet is a decent brand and under about ten years old. Cartridges, seats and springs are inexpensive and widely available for the major brands.
- It is a single, specific symptom. A drip from the spout, a loose handle, a leaking aerator.
- The finish and the body are still in good shape. No corrosion at the base, no cracks, no wobble where it meets the deck.
- You like it. A good faucet that matches the rest of the room is worth keeping alive.
Replacement usually makes sense when
- Parts are not available. Builder-grade faucets from big developments often have no serviceable cartridge, and generic replacements never fit quite right.
- It has been repaired before. Second repair on the same faucet is usually money toward a new one.
- There is corrosion or mineral damage on the body. Our water is hard enough that scale builds inside the faucet as well as on it. Once the internal passages are scaled, flow never fully comes back.
- The base is leaking onto the countertop or into the cabinet. Deck leaks ruin cabinet floors and are rarely worth chasing on an older fixture.
- You are changing the sink, the counter or the whole room anyway. Doing it together saves a second visit.
- You want a feature the old one does not have. A pull-down sprayer, a taller gooseneck, a touch or single-handle design, a water-efficient model.
What faucet replacement involves
A straightforward kitchen or bathroom faucet swap is normally a one-visit job. The sequence looks like this:
- Shut off the supply valves under the sink and drain the lines.
- Disconnect the supply lines and, on a kitchen sink, the sprayer hose and any disposal or filter connections that are in the way.
- Remove the old mounting hardware. This is the step that takes the longest on older installs, because nuts under a sink in a humid crawl of cabinet space are often seized.
- Clean the deck, set the new faucet with fresh gaskets, and mount it square.
- Install new braided stainless supply lines. We replace these as a matter of course. The old rubber or plastic ones are a common cause of the burst-line calls we take.
- Test under pressure, check for drips at every connection, and confirm both hot and cold flow and temperature.
Two things commonly turn a quick job into a longer one: shut-off valves that will not close, which is normal on valves that have not been turned in fifteen years and which we replace while we are in there, and a mismatch between the new faucet’s hole configuration and the sink. Measure the number of holes and the spread between them before you buy anything.
Choosing a faucet that survives Lowcountry water
Our water carries enough mineral content to matter, and coastal air adds its own wear, especially closer to the water in Mount Pleasant, Isle of Palms and Folly Beach.
- Solid brass body. Heavier is generally better. Plastic internals in a warm, humid house have a short useful life.
- Ceramic disc or quality cartridge valves. These tolerate hard water far better than older rubber-washer designs.
- Finishes that hide spots. Brushed nickel and stainless hide water spotting much better than polished chrome, which shows every drop within a day.
- A real warranty. The established brands back their cartridges for years and actually ship parts. That matters in year eight.
- Matching valve style across the house. If you standardize brands, a spare cartridge in a drawer fixes any faucet in the house.
Small symptoms and what they usually mean
Drip from the spout when closed. Worn cartridge or seat. Repairable on most quality faucets.
Leak around the base when running. Failed O-rings, or a body crack on older units.
Weak flow at one faucet only. Clogged aerator first, then cartridge, then supply valve. Start with the cheapest.
Handle stiff or gritty. Mineral buildup in the valve. Sometimes cleaned, often replaced.
Sprayer that will not retract. Hose weight or guide problem, usually fixable.
Water under the cabinet with no visible source. Check the supply connections and the disposal seal before assuming the faucet.
Frequently asked questions
How long does a faucet replacement take?
Most take between one and two hours, including new supply lines and testing. Seized hardware or a valve replacement adds time, and we tell you before we start if we see that coming.
Should I buy the faucet myself or have you supply it?
Either works. If you buy it, check the hole count and spread against your sink and keep every part in the box. If we supply it, we bring a model we know holds up here.
Do you replace the shut-off valves too?
We check them on every job. If a valve will not fully close or it weeps, replacing it while the sink is already apart is inexpensive, and it means you can isolate that fixture in a future emergency.
Can you match a faucet in an older bathroom?
Usually, yes. Bring us the brand and model if you have it, or a photo of the handles and base. Widespread and centerset configurations both have plenty of options.
Is a dripping faucet actually worth fixing right away?
Yes. It wastes a surprising amount of water, and the constant drip eventually marks the sink and stains the drain.
Book a faucet you will stop thinking about
Whether it needs a cartridge or a clean replacement, we will tell you which one you are looking at and quote it upfront. Call Applle 2 Home Services at 854-277-8444, or send a photo of the faucet and the underside of the sink through our contact page and we will come prepared. We handle residential plumbing across Summerville, Nexton, Cane Bay, Goose Creek, Ladson, North Charleston, Charleston and Mount Pleasant. More on the range of work we do is on our service areas page.
